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Easy swimming pool and spa maintenance tips you can do yourself.


Get Ready for the Weekend….Friday

  1. Test the pH, total alkalinity and sanitizer level of the pool water with GLB 4-way Test Strips®. If necessary, adjust levels with pH up, pH down, Alkalinity up and GLB®Granular tabs.
  2. Add GLB® algaecide (see label for dosing instructions).
  3. Add Sequa-Sol® sequestering agent (4 fl. oz. /10,000 gallons) to prevent stains and scale.
  4. Add Natural Clear® enzyme treatment (8 fl. oz. /10,000 gallons) to prevent and oily scum line.
  5. Add Clear Blue® clarifier (2 fl. oz. /10,000 gallons) to add sparkle and remove particles from the water.

Party clean up….Sunday

  1. Vacuum pool and clean out the skimmer baskets.
  2. Wipe off waterline and pool accessories with soft towel. Use TLC® surface cleaner for heavy buildup.
  3. Add Oxy-Brite® non-chlorine shock oxidizer (1 lb. /10,000 gallons) to rid water of contaminants.
  4. Check the filter operation. Refer to the filter manufacturer’s direction regarding when to backwash or clean the filters. Use Filter Rinse® each time sand filter is backwashed.

Take 5….During the Week.

Test the pH, Total Alkalinity and sanitizer levels of the pool water with GLB® 4-Way Test Strips. If necessary, adjust levels with pH up, pH down, Alkalinity up, and a GLB® Chlorinesanitizer.

Day 1

  1. Have 5 Star Pool and Spa test the water you will be using to fill your pool. Testing the water will allow you to identify what minerals and chemicals factors may require attention later.
  2. Check that your pool filter is clean. If it is not, use GLB® Filter Cleanse® according to label directions. Soak filter overnight for best results.
  3. Begin filling the pool. After the pool is filled with several inches of water, add GLB® Sequa-Sol® sequestering agent (16fl. oz. /10,000 gallons) prevent minerals in the water from staining or damaging pool surfaces.
  4. As the pool completes filling, add GLB® Clear Blue® clarifier (4 fl. oz. /10,000 gallons) to clear the water of small particles. Fill pool to the middle of the skimmer or proper level recommended by the manufacturer. Once filled, start the pump and filtration equipment. Run pool filter overnight or 24 hour if possible. While filter is running, it is a good time to vacuum and remove any debris from the pool.

Day 2

  1. Add GLB® Oxy-Brite® (1lb.) non-chlorine shock oxidizer to 10,000 gallons to destroy any contaminants that have accumulated in the water. Test the pH and total alkalinity levels of the pool water with GLB® 4 – way Test Strips or testing kit. Adjust the total alkalinity level to the range of 80-120ppm (parts per million) with Alkalinity up. Add pH up or pH down to adjust pH levels into the ideal range of 7.2-7.8.
  2. Now begin disinfecting the water by adding a GLB® Chlorine sanitizer to adjust the sanitizer level to the ideal range. 1-4ppm is the ideal range for Chlorine. Allow to circulate overnight.

Day 3

  1. Prevent rapid loss of chlorine due to sunlight by adding GLB® Stabilizer.
  2. Prevent algae from developing by adding GLB® algaecide (see label for dosing directions).

My heater will not ignite.

  • Is the heater switch on?
  • Is the thermostat set to a higher temperature than current water temp?
  • Is the pump running with a clean filter?
  • Is the heater gas valve in the on position?
  • Is the heater pilot lit?
  • Is the gas supply valve open?
  • Are all plumbing and filter valves open?

Contact Five Star Pool and Spa if you still cannot locate the problem.

There are two basic options when it comes to alternative sanitation treatment systems: ozone and ultraviolet radiation. Here’s a look at each type.


Ozone, a form of oxygen, is a powerful oxidizer and disinfectant. This highly unstable compound is generated either by exposing oxygen to a certain spectrum ultraviolet (UV) light (low output units) or corona discharge systems (high-output units), that basically subject oxygen to a high— voltage electrical arc. Both use venturi injectors to deliver the ozone to the circulating pool water.

Ozone has a very short life (most of the ozone in a pool system is virtually undetectable in less than 10 minutes), but because it is such a strong oxidizer, most health codes prevent its presence in the pool. That’s why corona-discharge ozone systems must include outboard contact chambers and in—line ozone destruction mechanisms to ensure virtually no ozone returns to the pool.

One benefit of ozone is that it can significantly reduce chemicals used for super chlorination. Claims of a significant reduction in sanitizer and oxidizer use are common, but ozone does not save any chlorine or bromine lost to backwashing, suit drag-out, splash-out, sunlight, evaporation, oxidation or disinfection in the pool.

Conventional UV

Conventional UV (CUV) has been used to augment typical chlorine and bromine system sanitation for years. In addition to destroying common bacteria and viruses, we have become aware that UV has the ability to destroy protozoan cysts such as giardia and cryptosporidium, as well as mono-chloramine in a single pass. The CUV chamber often is nothing more than a box fitted with a crystal cylinder through which water travels while being bombarded with the light from UV-spectrum fluorescent bulbs. Some are flow-through chambers fitted with crystal tubes that house a UV lamp.

“Medium pressure” (MPUV) really is not an increase in pressure, but the intensity and spectrum of the UV light measured In nanograms. The big difference is that medium—pressure UV, because of the broader spectrum and intensity, has the ability to destroy all chloramine species in addition to everything that conventional UV can do. Most are of the flow-through design; however, the lamp intensity is so strong the chamber must be constructed from stainless steel. Screens on the discharge side of the crystal chambers also are necessary to prevent any glass from entering the pool in the event of breakage. Additionally, safety flow switches and interlocks to the recirculation flow are a must.

Like ozone, UV can significantly reduce chemicals used for superchlorination. Again, claims of a significant reduction in sanitizer and oxidizer use are common, but neither UV nor ozone saves any chlorine or bromine lost to backwashing, suit drag-out, splash—out, sunlight, evaporation, oxidation or disinfection in the pool. It’s important to remember that UV and ozone systems can only treat the pool water passing directly through the system. Gage and Bidwell’s law of dilution confirms that less than 50 percent of the water actually sees the filter on the turnover, and many UV systems on a by-pass only treat a portion of that.


With UV, the most important strategy for maintaining optimum effectiveness is controlling water clarity.

Cloudy water will inhibit the UV’s effectiveness. It is also important that the crystal chamber which houses the lamps remains clean. Wiper assemblies should be standard equipment and, if not automatically operated, manual wipers should be used daily.

Corona-discharge ozone systems need routine maintenance of air separators, oxygen generators and periodic cleaning of the ozone—generating chamber.

Ozone—UV systems are arguably safer and maintenance usually only involves lamp replacement. The lamps are not inexpensive and must be replaced semiannually or sooner, depending on the number of hours of operation. Both systems should be interlocked with the recirculation system power and flow.

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